![]() ![]() You want to be able to peel the mask off of the base, so stuff like Saran Wrap is important for that future step. These masks are to be full-faced ones, so the wrap might not cover everything if you only wrap the front of the mask. Although you don’t need that much plastic wrap, I recommend wrapping your mask fully at least once or twice. Now we’re making a base! I plastic-wrapped my mask, making sure that the wrap covered all of the mask. I recommend putting your mask in the center. It just needs to be enough to prevent paint, or paper mache, or whatever might be used, from spilling everywhere. This is where the fun begins! I recommend prepping your area by laying down a full newspaper or two. It also needs to be able to be useable for several hours, or days. This image is of my kitchen table, and while it isn’t that big, it just needs to be big enough to fit my necessities. Having been in those shoes once, I’ve decided to compile a bunch of photos and tell everyone how I’ve managed to make not one, but two masks.Ī good place to start is to clear off a large space. However, everything is so expensive! The cheap stuff just isn’t that great of quality, and any tutorials you can find are so confusing, or require materials you don’t have (seriously, who just has a pocket torch and a wood saw just lying around ). Whether it be for a cosplay, or just for some regular fun, you’ve wanted to get one. The products we’ve used painting the model.If you’re like me, you’ve wanted to find a good full-face mask. So a dark grey or perhaps silver metallic would have been a logical choice. In hind side it would have been better to choose a filament color which makes sense when it shows throught the paint slightly. The final coat was some wheathering effect using Citadel Nuln Oil and Vallejo Model Wash – oiled earth. ![]() Two coats was sufficient for a pretty decent finish, but the idea was to create some weathering and battle damage, so the finish didn’t need to be pristine. Removing the liquid mask was done using toothpicks and cotton swabs, it releases quite easily with some friction. After the final coat is applied the liquid mask can be removed, showing the metal layer underneath.įor the top coat Revell acrylic spray was used. The material dries out quite quickly but stays a bit rubbery. Basically you apply it anywhere you want the final coat the show a chipped effect. In order to create the paint chips we used Liquid Mask. The metal color will show at the end when the paint chips on the final coat are applied. We used a regular brush for applying the paint.Īfter masking of the skull the outside of the stormtrooper was painted using Metal Color – Duraluminium. We used a mix of Vallejo Panzer Aces dark Rubber and Metal Color – Duraluminium. Then the skull was painted using acrylic paint by Vallejo. After some light sanding a second primer coat was applied. Vallejo surface primer was used was a first coat. Definitely feels a lot easier than PLA/PHA and colorFabb XT, which might have something to do with the higher heat resistance of the material. The model was printed with a Ultimaker Original, sliced with KISSlicer at 0.2mm layerheight and some support on the outside of the model.Ī small area of the model on the back was sanded with 240 grid sandpaper, to see how well nGen sands. For this model we decided to try our nGen material and see how it behaves when treated with some painting techniques. ![]()
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